How Does GPU Repair Warranty Work? What the 90-Day Cover Includes, Excludes & How to Qualify

2026-10-18 ｜ GPU Repair ｜ 11 min ｜ HK GPU Fix Editorial

Key Takeaways

A repair warranty usually covers only the parts replaced and the soldering workmanship of that repair — not every fault the card could develop. This shop's pages show both '90 days' and '90 to 180 days', so treat the receipt or work order given at collection as the binding term, and confirm its start date, scope, and exclusions in writing.

The Headline Number Is Not the Whole Answer

This article's title mentions 90 days because that is the figure most readers will have seen first: the shop's public pages describe a 90-day warranty in several places. But the same public pages also carry a second wording. The shop's published FAQ says the shop provides a free in-store warranty of up to 90 days to 180 days for hardware items repaired in store. Both wordings exist, and this article does not pick one of them and declare it the fact.

That matters because a warranty is a promise with boundaries: how long it lasts, which part it covers, and what voids it. If two published wordings disagree, the only safe anchor is the document handed to you for your specific repair. Before you leave the shop, check what your receipt or work order actually says: the number of days, the start date, the expiry date, and which repaired area the cover applies to. If anything on that document is unclear, ask on the spot and get the answer written down. Do not rely on memory of a conversation, and do not assume the headline figure on a web page is the term that governs your repair.

There is a second reason not to treat a bare number as the whole story. A repair warranty and a manufacturer warranty are different things, and they run on different clocks. The manufacturer warranty usually starts from the date of purchase and follows the whole card. A repair warranty follows the repair: the parts replaced and the work done in that repair. Confusing the two is one of the most common sources of disappointment after a repair, so this article keeps them separate throughout.

What a Repair Warranty Actually Covers: The Repair, Not the Card

The general industry logic, reflected in the published terms of several independent repair businesses, is that a repair warranty covers only the repair work carried out and the parts replaced. It does not cover the entire graphics card. One published set of repair terms puts it plainly: the warranty covers only the repair work conducted and parts replaced, and does not cover the entire graphics card. Another states that its guarantee applies only to the parts replaced and does not extend to the same problem caused by other faulty components that were not faulty, or not detected, during the repair.

The shop's published FAQ follows the same shape. It states that the warranty covers the chips it replaced and the soldering workmanship, and that if the same repaired area develops a non-man-made fault within the warranty period, the shop will arrange a free second inspection and re-repair. The FAQ lists the kinds of items this can apply to: replaced VRAM memory chips, a 12VHPWR socket, a power phase supply IC, and PTM7950 thermal maintenance. Read carefully, that is a list of repair items the warranty can attach to — not a promise that every one of those items is covered on every repair regardless of what was actually done to your card. The cover attaches to what was actually repaired on your card, as recorded on your receipt or work order.

That distinction is the key to understanding almost every warranty dispute. A graphics card is a dense assembly: a GPU core, memory chips, a power delivery system, a cooling assembly, a connector set, and a printed circuit board holding them together. A repair typically touches one small part of that assembly. The warranty covers that part and that workmanship. Everything else on the card — parts that were never touched, and faults that arise from them — sits outside the repair warranty.

Covered or Not: A Practical Table

The table below translates the general logic and the shop's published FAQ into the situations owners actually face. It is a guide to how warranty decisions are usually reasoned, not a substitute for the written terms on your own receipt. Where a situation is genuinely borderline, the shop's own inspection is what decides it.

The Same-Fault, Same-Area Test

Most repair warranties turn on one question: is this the same fault, in the same repaired area, that was fixed last time? Published repair terms from other repair businesses use exactly this test. One states that its re-repair guarantee covers the exact same fault as previously fixed, and that any new faults are treated separately. Another limits its guarantee to the parts replaced, excluding the same problem caused by other components that were not faulty during the repair.

Apply that test to a concrete example. Suppose a shop replaces one faulty VRAM chip, and within the warranty period the same chip, or the same memory channel, produces the same kind of visual corruption or error again. That looks like the same fault in the same repaired area, and it is the core case a repair warranty exists for. Now suppose the same visual corruption returns, but inspection shows a different VRAM chip, or a different voltage rail, is at fault. The symptom is the same, but the faulty component is not. Under the usual logic, that is a new fault, and it is handled with a fresh inspection and quote.

A third case confuses owners most: the multiple-fault card. A card can carry two faults at once, and the first repair fixes one of them. The second fault only becomes visible afterwards, once the card is running again. That does not mean the first repair was wrong, and it does not automatically make the second fault a warranty matter. It means the card had more than one problem, and the second one now needs its own diagnosis. This is why it is worth asking, at collection, exactly what was repaired and what was checked and found healthy. A clear record of the repair scope protects both sides: it tells you what the warranty attaches to, and it tells the shop what it actually did.

What Is Excluded, and Why the Boundary Is Man-Made Damage

The shop's published FAQ lists three exclusions. They are worth quoting in full, because they define the boundary of the cover: man-made physical breakage or a repeat liquid-cooling leak; re-burn caused by using a poor-quality or non-compliant power supply; and the customer disassembling the card a second time, or flashing an unsuitable overvolted VBIOS.

The common thread is that the warranty covers the repair's own quality, not damage introduced after the repair by outside causes. A warranty on soldering workmanship cannot sensibly cover a card that was dropped, flooded by a leaking cooler, or fed by a power supply that burned it again. Likewise, once a customer opens the card or rewrites its firmware with an unsuitable overvolted VBIOS, the shop can no longer tell whether a later fault came from the original repair or from the later intervention. That is why self re-disassembly and unsuitable VBIOS flashing are standard exclusion territory, and why the sensible advice is simple: during the warranty period, do not open the card yourself, do not let another shop open it without first talking to the repairing shop, and do not flash experimental firmware.

There are grey areas, and honest articles should name them rather than pretend the line is always sharp. What exactly counts as a poor-quality power supply is a judgement the shop makes on inspection; this article does not invent a test for it, such as naming brands or wattages that supposedly void cover. Normal wear is another grey area: thermal paste and thermal pads age, and fans wear with use. Wear of that kind is not, in general, the same thing as a failure of repair workmanship. If you are unsure whether a symptom is wear, a new fault, or a warranty matter, the correct step is to describe the symptom to the shop and let it inspect the card, not to decide the classification yourself.

How to Qualify: What to Do Before, at Collection, and During Cover

Qualifying for warranty cover is mostly a matter of keeping good records and handling the card sensibly. The steps below are general good practice, not a claim about any shop's internal process.

Before the repair, record the fault. A short phone video of the symptom — the artefacts on screen, the black screen, the error code — plus a note of when it happens, is worth far more than a verbal description later. Keep your booking or RMA tracking number. The shop's published FAQ describes an eight-digit booking number format issued after an online booking, and a mail-in process built around an RMA tracking number. Keep that number with the card's paperwork.

At collection, read the receipt or work order before you leave. The shop's published FAQ states that the shop issues a formal repair receipt and company invoice carrying the Hong Kong Business Registration number, with the repair item details, part batch numbers, and an engineer stamp. Check that the document lists what was repaired, and ask the five questions in the next section. Then test the card promptly once it is home. Do not leave it in a box for months before first switching it on: if a problem exists, you want to find it while the warranty period, and your memory of the repair, are both fresh.

During the cover period, if the fault returns, contact the shop promptly, describe the original repair and the current symptom, and keep the receipt and booking number at hand. Do not open the card, and do not have another shop work on it first, before the repairing shop has had a chance to look. Remember that the shop's published exclusion covers self re-disassembly — opening the card yourself can end the cover you are trying to claim.

Five Things to Ask Before the Repair Starts, and Get in Writing

The shop's published pages do not state the answers to the questions below, and this article does not invent them. They are the questions to ask before the repair starts, and to have answered in writing on the receipt or work order. Each one closes a gap that otherwise becomes a dispute.

1. When does the cover start, and when does it end? Repair warranties in general may run from the completion date, the handover date, or the delivery date, and different shops count differently. Ask for the start date and expiry date of your repair, in writing, at collection.
2. Exactly which repaired area is covered? Ask for the repaired item to be named on the document — which chip, which socket, which section of the board — so that a later claim is not an argument about memory.
3. What documents do I need to make a claim? Keep the receipt or work order and the booking or RMA number, and ask the shop what it needs from you before a claim, rather than assuming a list.
4. If the card has to go back, who pays the freight? For mail-in claims, the cost of return postage or courier is a real expense. The shop's published pages do not state who pays it on a warranty re-repair, so ask before the repair, not after the fault returns.
5. Does a warranty re-repair extend the cover? Some warranty terms state plainly that a repair or replacement under warranty does not extend the original warranty period. Others differ. The shop's published pages do not state the answer for this shop, so ask, and keep the answer in writing.

One more question belongs on the list if you ever plan to sell the card: is the repair warranty tied to you, or does it follow the card to a new owner? The shop's published pages do not state an answer, so do not assume transferability either way.

Repair Warranty vs Manufacturer Warranty

If your card is still inside the manufacturer or agent warranty period, think before you send it to a third-party repairer. The shop's published FAQ warns that opening the card and breaking the warranty-void sticker may affect the manufacturer warranty, and advises sending the card back to the manufacturer first. That is sound advice: a manufacturer warranty covers the whole card, and giving it up for a third-party repair should be a deliberate choice, not an accident.

The same FAQ notes the other side of the coin. If the manufacturer judges the damage to be man-made — it names 12VHPWR burn damage, liquid-cooling leak oxidation, and scratches caused by disassembly and paste replacement as examples that can lead to a warranty refusal — then a chip-level repairer may still be able to offer a second rescue. A manufacturer refusal is not necessarily the end of the road. But it does change the position: from then on, the card is covered only by whatever the repairer puts in writing, so the questions in the previous section matter even more.

What It Costs, and What No Fix, No Fee Means Here

The shop's published price range is HK$400–2,800, and the actual fee for any given repair is set by the post-inspection quote. The shop's published FAQ describes the total as the cost of the original IC or component parts plus the engineer's BGA micro-soldering labour. Treat the published range as a reference frame, not as a quote: the price of your repair depends on what the inspection finds, and the written quote is the number that counts.

The same FAQ states a no-fix, no-fee position: if inspection confirms the card cannot be repaired — it gives a punctured, destroyed GPU core with no replacement part as the example — the shop charges no hardware repair fee, and the basic professional microscope and circuit preliminary inspection is free. Read that as a published policy statement, and confirm how it applies to your repair in writing before work begins. In particular, ask what happens if you decide not to proceed after inspection, and what the position is on any disassembly or restoration work already done, rather than assuming every charge is waived.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the warranty 90 days or 180 days?

The shop's public pages show both wordings: 90 days in some places, and up to 90 days to 180 days in the published FAQ. This article does not choose between them. The binding term for your repair is whatever is written on the receipt or work order given at collection. Confirm the start date, expiry date, and covered area before you leave.

Does the warranty cover the whole card?

No. The warranty covers the chips replaced and the soldering workmanship of that repair. A fault in a part of the card that was never touched, or a new fault in a different component, is a separate matter with its own inspection and quote.

What documents do I need to make a warranty claim?

The shop's published pages do not publish a claim-documents list, and this article does not invent one. Keep the receipt or work order, which should list the repair items, and your booking or RMA number. Ask the shop before the repair what it needs for a claim, and keep that answer in writing.

If the fault returns, who pays to send the card back?

The shop's published pages do not state who pays return freight on a warranty re-repair. Ask before the repair, and get the arrangement in writing, so a warranty claim does not turn into an argument about postage.

Does a warranty re-repair extend the warranty?

The shop's published pages do not state an answer. Some warranty terms expressly say that a warranty repair does not extend the original period; others differ. Ask, and keep the answer in writing.

I opened the card myself after the repair. Is it still covered?

On the shop's published FAQ, self re-disassembly is an exclusion. Opening the card after a repair risks ending the cover, so contact the shop first and let it inspect the card.

Does the repair warranty transfer if I sell the card?

The shop's published pages do not state whether repair cover follows the card or the customer. Do not assume either way: ask before the repair and keep the answer in writing.

Final Checklist

Before you hand a card over, and again at collection, run through this list: fault recorded on video or photo; booking or RMA number kept; written quote obtained after inspection; receipt or work order read, with the warranty start date, expiry date, covered area, and exclusions on it; exclusions understood — no self re-disassembly, no unsuitable overvolted VBIOS, no poor-quality power supply; claim documents and freight arrangement asked about in advance; manufacturer warranty position considered before any warranty-void sticker is broken; and the card tested promptly after collection. A warranty is only as strong as the paper it is written on. Make sure the paper says what you think it says.